Edinburgh Day 2 - A Castle, A Climb & A Cemetery

My first night of sleep was weird, being in an unfamiliar place in a room full of guys. Six of the ten beds in the dorm were occupied, and I was the only girl there on Tuesday night. I didn’t sleep particularly well, but I slept far better than I thought I would in a dorm setting. The big old windows were rattling all night, but I found it became an ambient sound after a while. My only tiny issue with the hostel was that there was nowhere private in the dorm itself to get changed, so I had to walk over to the bathroom every time. But hell, that’s not much of an imposition when you’re only paying £40 for three nights.

Wednesday

I had booked a ticket to go to Edinburgh Castle as soon as it opened at 9:30, but still had a leisurely time getting ready as it was literally across the road (again, shout out to Castle Rock and its amazing location). I would absolutely recommend going to the castle at opening time – I had a lot of places to myself while I was wandering around, and the place fills up really quickly. By the time I left, it was packed with people.

The castle was really pretty, as castles always are, and I took my time strolling around the grounds. That morning’s clouds began to clear up really quickly, and the day was turning out to be clear, sunny and breezy. I was pleasantly surprised, as it was supposed to be cloudy for my whole trip. My favourite part was the Prisons of War exhibit. It was really dark and spooky in there, and I learned a lot about pirates which can only be a good thing. Across the way from this was the ‘newer’ military prison, which was also very interesting. The castle has a small dog cemetery, to honour all the soldiers’ dogs. I also loved seeing the big cannons all over the place, especially Mons Meg. Another highlight for me was seeing the Scottish crown jewels – they were fabulous, and so very old.

I think Edinburgh Castle is a must-see. It’s such an important landmark, a beautiful place full of history, and there’s a fantastic view from the ramparts (not to mention a very well-stocked whisky shop).

(Click on this one to see it more clearly!)

After I left the castle, I began to walk toward Holyrood Park. It was about 20 minutes away, and my itinerary got a bit wonky at this point. It was fine, because nothing else I’d planned had a specific time to it, so I was quite happy to play it by ear for the rest of the day.

I stopped by Greyfriars Kirkyard when I came across it on my walk. I’d kind of hoped to see it on a cloudy, gloomy day but it holds its spookiness despite the beaming sun. It is an incredible cemetery full of beautiful, elaborate old graves. I spent ages in there, even though it’s not that large, and took so many photos - it was so difficult to restrain myself and choose only three shots for this post. I spied the Flodden Wall, a city wall erected in the 16th century (and still standing!), and the famous Greyfriars Bobby statue. My morbid self was in her element here, and it was endlessly fascinating to read the inscriptions and spot as many ‘Memento Mori’ references as possible.

Apparently, it’s this kirkyard that inspired JK Rowling’s vision of the Little Hangleton cemetery in Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire. I can definitely see why. It’s such a gothic setting, full of Category A-listed crumbling tombs. I recommend going here, or any one of Edinburgh’s many stunning old burial grounds.

I stopped at a place called Black Medicine Coffee Co for a refuel. My friend had recommended it to me, and I’m so glad she did because it was divine. The coffee house itself is really cute and quirky, with a big basement seating area. It’s quite often populated by students, and had a really laid-back vibe. I had a mocha and a slice of rocky road. They were so delicious, and definitely a big sugar hit. I took my time there and chilled out.

The next thing on my itinerary was Arthur’s Seat, the peak of an extinct volcano in Holyrood Park. It’s about 822ft up, and I was sure using the ‘rolling hills’ on the treadmill had prepared me for anything. I was woefully unprepared. I didn’t bring any water with me, despite usually being a total bore when it comes to staying hydrated. I had Vans instead of suitable walking shoes. I had no supplies on me except for half a pack of tropical Skittles. I feel like this is so on brand that I’m almost proud of it. Despite all of my idiocy, though, I managed to get up there. The going was a bit easier when I caught up with two American girls (who were much more suitably dressed) – we encouraged each other and swapped stories of hikes past. They were also kind enough to snap this wonderful photo when we got to the summit:

My legs burned, I was all out of puff and it was so ridiculously windy up on the Seat, but it was all worth it for that amazing view. I sat up there for a while, watching everyone taking photos and clambering around on the rocks. There were kids, adults, old people, dogs, Scottish and tourists alike up there, and I silently sent good vibes to every one of them for making it to the top. I helped take photos for other people (including the American girls from before) and took in the sunshine.

As I began my descent I was joking with some fellow English folk about engaging our inner mountain goat so as not to fall off the hill. I warned them that they might encounter my carcass at the bottom. I got chatting to some more friendly Americans, one of whom thought I’d hiked this trail before because ‘you seem to know where you’re going’. LOL, god bless. I took my time coming down because the weather was beautiful and I felt very peaceful and content out there in the crags.

I wanted to go to Calton Hill next. I’d learned that they used to burn accused witches there, until they took that morbid crap to the Castle. I was walking in that general direction when, in an unnamed side street, I found the New Calton Burial Ground. Yet another beautiful old cemetery? Of course I made a detour and spent a long while wandering around. There was a sign at the other entrance that said ‘Tombs With A View’ and I still laugh about it now. Always here for a bit of death-based humour.

If you want some nice views of Edinburgh and can’t quite stomach the thought of climbing Arthur’s Seat, I would recommend Calton Hill. It’s really close to the city centre so it’s easy to get to. There are steps and slopes to the top, so it’s also more accessible. There are also lots of interesting to see on the hill itself – some of them are the National Monument of Scotland, the Nelson Monument, and the Portuguese Cannon.

By this point I was parched. I hadn’t had anything to drink since my mocha at Black Medicine, and I was really feeling it. I stopped at a Sainsbury’s and grabbed some water. I also found a Superdrug and bought some painkillers because I was beginning to hurt everywhere. I had a proper look at the wonderfully imposing Scott Monument before continuing to the Princes Street Gardens. The park was lovely and tranquil – I sat near the Ross Fountain for a while and rehydrated. My legs and back were thankful for the short reprieve. Before I left, I scouted out the little Robert Louis Stevenson memorial stone. Then I had to climb the Castle Mound again. I’d essentially done a huge, hilly loop around the city and it was a hell of a hike, but so worth it for everything I got to see.

 I’d had another food recommendation (same friend – thanks, Caz!) for a place called Mary’s Milk Bar and I was pretty chuffed when I found out it was right behind and downhill from my hostel. I decided to go there before touching base at Castle Rock. First of all, look at this absolutely darling little shop!

It’s a perfect pastel juxtaposition to the gloomy, gothic Edinburgh around it. The inside is just as lovely, with ice cream shaped wall sconces and vintage ads for milkshake on the walls. The two girls working in there were so friendly and sweet, and there’s a huge range of homemade gelato in unusual flavours. I played it a bit safe and got a scoop of salted caramel and a scoop of cherry and dark chocolate chip. I perched on one of the stools inside while I ate and went to heaven. Another huge thumbs-up from me – the sweet treat was exactly what I needed, and so beautifully made and delicious.

(Top left window is my dorm!)

I popped back to the hostel to have a zizz for an hour because the fatigue was really beginning to set in from my busy day. I wanted to feel a bit more alive for the evening.

I went to a bar called Frankenstein for dinner. It appears to be in an old church, which is lit up with green lighting at night. Inside, a huge Frankenstein’s Monster statue stands in the doorway and the décor is very dark and weird science-y. Up on the mezzanine, to my utter delight, were replica morgue drawers. I had a good wander around before I ordered dinner and settled in a booth. There were spotlight lights on the floor, but they were all the Monster’s face, and the Boris Karloff film played silently on a large screen. It was a really cool place, and I found it fun because it seemed to just be a ‘local pub’ for most of the people in there (there was even a pub quiz later on).

I had some mozzarella sticks, a cheese and bacon burger with chips, and a New York-style cheesecake with whipped cream and some kind of dark cherry puree. It was really delicious, even more so because I’d only eaten a rocky road slice all day. I took my time eating and relaxing, and had two tasty themed cocktails – ‘Bloody Mary Shelley’ and ‘The Bride’.

I briefly went to an alternative nightclub called Opium, where I found out that they were doing Jack Daniels & coke for £1.50 – ONE POUND AND FIFTY PENCE. I was practically stealing it! I only had one, and took my time drinking it. The bar was nice and quiet because it was still early, and I left before it got busy. I let my younger self down a bit (£1.50 DRINKS) but I was still really tired and it had been a long day.

I meandered slowly back to the hostel. I took a little detour to look at a pub called The Last Drop. It’s named that because it’s where they used to let prisoners have a drink before going to the gallows. Thanks again to ‘Australian David’ for this wonderfully morbid history lesson!

I want to say at this point that I felt so safe walking through Edinburgh at night and didn’t once feel uneasy during my trip. I always maintain that, as long as you mind your own business and trust your instincts, you will generally be ok in a city. Of course, prior research on areas to avoid is always a good idea, too – I don’t fool myself into thinking anywhere is 100% safe. When I got back to the hostel, I just hung out in my dorm and turned in fairly early. From this night on, there was another girl in the dorm too, which was nice.

~

Wow, so this was another essay. Congrats if you’ve managed to stay with me, I really appreciate it. Click here for the final part!